Call it the other white fish. But tilapia is no longer just for locals ... seared and dressed with black sesame seeds, or served whole and grilled with a crisp, citrusy skin.

Thai cooks love tilapia for its versatility. "You can steam it, fry it or grill it," Andy Ricker says about this mild white fish. At Pok Pok, he stuffs whole fish with lemongrass, encases it in a ...